An in-depth conversation with René de León, Executive Secretary of Promecafé. He took on Promecafé at just 41 years old, and although life has led him into executive roles, René dreams of dedicating himself to caring for his farm, with a sustainable approach
By Amalia del Cid
Photos: Douglas López Toledo
Towards the end of the seventies, Central America faced two new enemies: the coffee berry borer and leaf rust, problems never before seen in the regional coffee industry. In response, the Cooperative Regional Program for Technological Development and Modernization of Coffee Cultivation (Promecafé) was established in 1978.
At that time, René León-Gómez Rodas was a child spending his vacations on his maternal grandfather’s farm in the Honduran department of El Paraíso, learning about life in the countryside, livestock, and coffee cultivation. Today, he is the agronomist leading Promecafé, bringing together nine countries: Mexico, Jamaica, the Dominican Republic, and Central America.
At 48 years old and living in Guatemala City, he dreams of returning to the countryside with his wife and two daughters and establishing a sustainable farm model with fish, bees, coffee, and livestock. “Sustainability” is one of his favorite words.
Seven years ago, when he was appointed executive secretary of Promecafé at just 41 years old, how has the experience been?
It hasn’t been extremely difficult, but it has been challenging and interesting. In the beginning, perhaps a bit intimidating when you start interacting with people who have a great experience, but in the end, it’s a driving force that motivates you to focus and prepare yourself, with the purpose of meeting expectations.
What led you to study agronomic engineering?
I had it very clear since I was very young. My maternal family in Honduras has been involved with the countryside. They had estates, coffee plantations, and livestock. I lived in the city, of Tegucigalpa, but the most enjoyable time of the year was when my family went to the countryside during vacations. I dreamed of my grandfather’s property. It was my favorite place.
Did you already have an interest in coffee as a child?
Yes, but to be honest what caught my attention the most were the animals because they are living beings with whom you interact and share. I developed a love for coffee because of what it means for our countries.
If you were more interested in livestock, how did you get into the world of coffee?
It has been circumstantial. A friend told me about a job opportunity, and that’s how I entered the National Coffee Fund and the coffee sector, which I only knew from my family experience. I loved it. Then I moved to the Honduran Coffee Institute, where I was more involved in the agronomic aspect. I identify a lot with the (coffee) problem, and that adds passion to the topic, plus a personal commitment to trying to do things right.
So, more than coffee, what you are passionate about is people.
Absolutely. For our countries, coffee is important not so much for the coffee itself. I am passionate about coffee, but I wouldn’t die if I didn’t have a cup. What I love most about the coffee sector is what it represents for people, thinking about communities, producers, and the people who work with the producers. Also, the social and environmental aspects. I have always loved the coffee landscape. If I have to imagine the most beautiful areas of our country, I always imagine a coffee forest. I don’t like full-sun coffee plantations; it’s not a coffee plantation for me. A coffee plantation is a forest with coffee underneath, many little animals, a lot of water, a lot of humidity, and the biodiversity that I love associating with coffee.
Do you go to the countryside often?
I love it. I don’t do it as much now as I would like. When I studied agronomy, I dreamed of being on the farm, with the animals, and driving the tractor, but the path has brought me to more executive tasks. It’s not what I like the most, but I’m glad I can do it, and I don’t give up my dream of returning to the countryside. It’s my life plan. I want to link the work on my farm with the surrounding communities, which have great needs. I love livestock and vegetable production… I dream of a model where the farm becomes comprehensive, with a circular production process. Having fish, bees, coffee, livestock. Sustainability means no waste, no pollution, and no dependence on a single productive sector.
What is Promecafé currently doing?
If I had to summarize it, Promecafé’s work is to build bridges between countries to cooperate. Technical cooperation to solve the main challenges of coffee cultivation. Technical exchange, promotion, marketing, assistance as a block to spaces where coffee policy is discussed, resource management with donors, research, and training of specialists. In the region, there used to be almost no coffee cuppers; we barely talked about one cupper in Central America; now we find them everywhere, and that has contributed to the quality of our coffee. In alliance, we advance better.
For those who don’t know much about the topic. Rust and climate change are often mentioned as enemies of coffee, which one would you explain is worse and why?
Climate change has a greater impact. If you understand rust, you can manage it, and in fact, that’s what has been happening for many years. But climate change changes conditions in a disorderly manner, causing pests and diseases to become more complex to manage. Rust itself begins to behave differently, and perhaps what you were doing before doesn’t work as well anymore. The altitude that was once good for coffee is becoming lower, and the producer is moving up, cutting down forests, and encroaching on reserve areas. And if you add a lack of profitability to climate change, you have the perfect storm.
The frost in Brazil in 2021 is a clear example of this, correct?
It’s part of climate change. This time, an adverse event in Brazil has brought a bit of an advantage to Central America and other coffee-producing countries in the world. Brazil’s production is so large that when it is affected, the market gets nervous and tends to increase the value of coffee. But it is a highly temporary condition, and just as it affected Brazil now, it can affect us, Colombians, Mexicans tomorrow… We must adapt the production system so that we are less vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. Our shaded coffee cultivation has a bit more advantage in that sense. It’s like being under a blanket.
Previously you said you are passionate about coffee. How many cups do you drink a day?
About seven or eight. Four in the morning and four in the afternoon.
And what is your favorite?
I like a bit of acidity, not too dark, and smooth, with medium or light roast that allows you to perceive the most delicate flavors. But I couldn’t tell you that it’s the best coffee because there are people who love dark, strong, concentrated coffee. I think the best coffee is the one you like the most.
